One day in the summer of 2009 I was driving from Pisa to the area of Chianti in Tuscany. It was past two in the afternoon and I was getting hungry. In Italy the kitchen of restaurants and trattorias closes at two, so it would take some luck to find a bite to eat.
All of a sudden I saw an exit on the left, and decided to take it. After driving two kilometers in a narrow twisting road that was going uphill, I found my self in front of a majestic complex of fortifications and buildings. It was the Vicchiomaggio Castle, built in the 15th century at the top of the hill overlooking the Greve valley (Val di Greve), 18 km south of Florence and 38 km north of Sienna. Its strategic position enabled it to play a significant role in the defence of Florence during the Medieval wars with Siena. The castle has been integrated with a 11th century tower. The whole complex has been renovated and preserved.
I parked the car and went inside. On my way in I saw the castle’s chapel.
The dining area is inside the main building.
A few people were finishing their meal. The kind waiter informed me that the kitchen was closed but they could get me a salad and some antipasti.
A few minutes later, the waiter brought me sliced mozzarella, a mixed fresh salad, and a selection of prosciuto, salumi and pecorino.
They were all delicious.
The Chianti Classico wine “Agostino Petri” was produced by the owner of the castello, John Matta, one of the best winemakers in the area, and it was an excellent choice.
The waiter finished his work and came to play the piano in the empty dining area. He started with some light tunes I did not know, and after we started talking and the discussion came to opera, he played “Nessun Dorma”, the famous aria of Puccini’s Turandot. He smiled and thanked me for listening.
The Castello Vicchiomaggio is today a fully functioning hotel and restaurant.
Gastrolvios 